Curb Pavement: High Sierras (journal)

The Daily Journal from the High Sierras Hike Trip Report.

Here are my daily updates reported via SAT phone while I was on the trail.

Day 0 (prep day)
Left LA this morning and headed toward the east-side of the Sierras. Drove up into the mountains SW of the small town of Lone Pine and dropped off a cache at a camp with a bear box. Back down in town, I had a great final meal with my parents and then did some 11th hour re-packing. It was 104F today where I will begin my hike, so I hope to be walking early in the morning to get up the mountain and beat the heat as much as possible. I’m excited. πŸ™‚

Day 1
Last-minute supply run and long line for permits = late start. HOT day skirting foothills looking for shade. Temp on watch read 102 at mid-day. Running low on water, but spring should not be too far away tomorrow. Meager 11 miles for the day.

Day 2
Woke up to an ant-infested camp. Made my way to a spring and filled up early in the morning. Then, I started really climbing the hills. It was miserable — very steep without a trail and 97 at mid-day with very little shade. I am running LOW on water again. Very low miles today. I am now a full day behind. But, I will make it up.

Day 3
Woke up thirsty so with little water I decided to go on a side trek to a distant spring. It was much harder than thought as it took me over 4 hours, but it was good to have water as climbing trail up was still very hot. Late in day I made it over the crest…yay 2 going downhill. I didn’t find more water till camp near Deer Spring. Dinner of macaroni-n-cheese.

Day 4
Changed plan and headed west toward Kennedy Meadows. From here I got on the Pacific Coast Trail. So nice to be back on a real trail. Still hot, but not like the inferno of first three days. Plenty of water available now. Despite an 18 mile hike day, I’m still way behind. Camped near a babbling brook and had chicken enchilada for dinner.

Day 5
Woke up to find a squirrel trying to get in my pack. On the trail I made my way through a huge burn area. Kind of erie. Over a pass I could see Mt. Whitney and other high peaks to the North — still a few days away. Ran into Larry and Terri today, the first other hikers I’ve seen since starting my hike. Camped on shoulder of Olancha Peak at over 9000 feet. Made 17 miles for the day.

Day 6
Hiked 23 miles today — my most ever with a big pack. But I’m still about 2 days behind due to bad start. Food cravings are kickin in; nachos, burgers, etc. and since I’m so far behind, I’m running out of food. M&Ms and power bar for dinner. Same thing for lunch. But I will be at cache tommorrow to restock my food supply. Good news is that the scenery is getting better. Hiked above 10,000 feet for a big portion of the day. Lots of quail, marmots and chipmunks with a few deer. No bears though. Crazy coyotes at night. I’ll have a full moon tonight, and a full belly tommorrow! Night 6 camp was at 10,341 feet.

Day 7
Up and down a few ridges and across a few meadows and I was at my cache at Horseshoe Meadows. So happy to have food that I actually cooked a lunch — something I rarely do. Then back 2 hiking. Topped the pass and camped by a little lake in cirque of mountain at 11,312 feet. Very cool temperature at sunset. As I’m writing this post, a large rockfall just occured across lake. I’ll have to see the damage in the AM when there’s light.

Day 8
Made my way along the west side of the big peaks. Met backcountry Ranger Dave who’s been out here for 4 months. He showed me the best place to cross Rock Creek. Camped above Crabtree Meadow with a good view of Mt. Whitney. The ’80s song of “The Politics of Dancing” has been stuck in my head all day. I’ll be dancing atop Mt. Whitney tomorrow!

Day 9
I left my big pack at camp and headed up western flanks of Mt. Whitney passing the gorgeous Guitar Lake area on the way. There were very steep switchbacks that were tough, but the views just kept getting better. I had to get through a snow patch near the summit. Finally… the summit of Mt. Whitney! Up on top, the views were amazing in every direction. Guess that’s why so many people go — saw 9 times more people today than I have in the last 9 days combined. Feeling good; can’t get any higher! (in the lower 48 states.) After 1hr on top, I reversed my course and headed back 2 camp –the same place from last night. All is Good!

Day 10
Headed north and soon noticed something new — people! There are a lot of southbound John Muir Trail hikers. I see a group about every 20min. Crossed two creeks by boulder hopping. The views from Bighorn Plateau were great. I camped at the foot of Forester Pass as other hikers warned me, that snow conditions on the other side of the pass, would be best to cross in the morning. So, I stopped earlier than normal at 5:45 PM and explored two partially frozen lakes near camp. Very cool stuff. πŸ™‚ I’m heading into Kings Canyon tomorrow. By the next day I hope to be at Road’s End wilderness kiosk where hopefully I’ll have my cache of food. If it’s not there I’ll have to hike down to Cedar Grove to pick it up — a long side trek. Camp was at 12,522 feet.

Day 11
The perils of Forester Pass were somewhat exaggerated. Made it up and over the scary switchbacks without a problem. The views were great on top. The North slope did have a lot of snow, but with the help of my micro-spikes and going at a slow step, it wasn’t that bad. Then, down the u-shaped glacial valley. Hiked 29.5 miles for the day by my gps, but it was 21 miles by park signage. Truth probably somewhere in between. Either way, it was a long day. On the trail, I met an amazing couple. The woman was blind, hiking with her husband and seeing eye dog. They were 13 miles out! Hope to get to my re-supply tomorrow. Now at much lower altitude as I camped at 6282 feet. Almost exactly half of the previous nights camp of 12,522 feet.

Day 12
I saw my first bear of the hike today. It was early in morning just off the trail. There he was, just sitting and digging for grubs. He didnt care that I was there at all. After taking a few pictures, I continued on to the Road’s End wilderness permit station where, thanks to Park Rangers, I had my re-supply waiting for me. After loading up I headed north past Mist Falls and into Paradise Valley. I camped in a designated location so I could store extra food in a steel bear box. My neighbor, Vermont Mike, told me a bear cub had just wandered through the site before I arrived. I never saw the bear cub but did see a deer. Tomorrow I start climbing again and head off-trail into Muro Blanco Canyon. Camp elevation for the night was 6962 feet.

Day 13
The Muro Blanco beat me. After 4 hrs of off-trail travel up canyon, across downed trees, over boulders, through brush and thorns, past a rattlesnake, and 2 tough river crossings… I decided I had to turn back. I was having zero fun and it was taking way too long. A little deflated, but I’m back on the trail now. It’s a longer way with an extra mountain pass to cross, but at least I won’t find myself stuck in another thorn bush! I had to go back to my starting point for the day, and then head east. I ended up only six miles from my previous night’s camp. Due to the re-stocking of food supplies, not all of the food I have fit into my bear canister so once again I had to stop at a designated campsite that had steel bear boxes. Tomorrow will be a better day as I have even more miles to make up. Camp was at 8556 feet.

Day 14
Made my way up and over Pinchot Pass. Passed many emerald green and deep blue lakes along the way. Pushed up to upper basin to camp near source of the Kings River. The bugs are bad, but the stars were great at night. I’ve gone 233 miles so far. Camped for the night at 11,056 feet.

Day 15
I climbed over the 12,000 foot Mather Pass early in the day. Small, but steep snow patches on the North side made for a slow descent. The glacier-polished granite and blue green lakes of Palisade Basin were awesome. Then down the Golden Staircase to junction of Le Conte Canyon. Camped near a waterfall at 8619 feet. Tomorrow, more climbing and another long day to get back on schedule.

Day 16
Made it up and over the 12,000 foot Muir Pass today. It was by easily the most snow so far — fields of it! Nothing scary though. Checked out the stone hut on top then down and around Wanda Lake — the biggest lake I’ve seen on my hike. Camped near Evolution Lake and tried to fix my leaky sleeping pad while fighting dozens of mosquitoes. Lost both battles! Camp elevation 10,738 feet.

Day 17
Today was another big mile day making my way down from the high country into the valleys below. The infamous crossing of Evolution Creek was not bad at all. Traveling along the San Joaquin River was nice. Climbed back into mountains to camp for the night. I’m staying on the Muir Trail for now to make better time. Camp elevation 9708 feet.

Day 18
Made way over Selden Pass — my easiest pass so far. It rained on and off through the day- but never got too wet. It was nice actually, cooled the day and enhanced the smell of pine and lavender. The notorious crossing of Bear Creek was easy –except for the mosquitoes which were terrible. Camped near the rushing Mono Creek at 7851 feet elevation.

Day 19
It was a slow climb up and over the Silver Divide. I had to cross more snow; probably my last. It rained a little again today — even hailed on me for a while. Neither condition was enough to make me change from shorts and t-shirt to longer, warmer clothes. I hiked until 8pm and camped near a waterfall. I’m nearly out of food, but should have my re-supply tomorrow. Camp elevation was 9934 feet.

Day 20
14 miles of fast hiking to start the day so that I could make it to Devil’s Postpile and meet my girlfriend, Kellen for lunch. I was just under 1 hour late, but it was great to see her and get an awesome turkey sandwich! She will be joining me for the last four days of my High Sierra adventure. After packing the new supplies that she brought, and devouring that awesome turkey sandwich, we hiked up and camped at base of the Minerets at an elevation of 8822 feet.

Day 21
Passed two good waterfalls in route to Minaret Lake. From here we went off trail along the Sierra High Route. It was tough going up with loose rock to the top of the pass. Here we were at the base of the sheer Minaret pinnacles and the snow chutes. We made our way around part of the frozen Cecile Lake crossing two snow fields and a boulder field. Fun for me, not so much for Kellen. Then we had a great view down to Iceberg Lake which was still nearly half frozen. It was an amazing sight. It was a scary 1/4 mile traverse across snow on the edge and then we were happy to be back on a trail. Passed nice tarns and another lake and then camped by Shadow Creek at an elevation of 9249 feet.

Day 22
We made it back to the John Muir Trail which helped us pick up the pace. We stopped for a snack at picturesque Garnet Lake then another at 1000 Island Lake. There are fewer hikers on the John Muir Trail now as the season must be winding down. Tomorrow we climb up over the 11,100 foot Donahue Pass, then down the switchbacks to the valley floor and on to our final destination at Tuolumne Meadows where we will end this adventure. Our final camp is a cool spot below Donahue Pass looking back at the Ritter Range. The mosquitoes are not as bad at camp which is such a relief. Final camp elevation is 10,312 feet.

Day 23
Great sunrise on the Ritter Range, then we made it up and over Donahue pass. From there it was a steep on-trail descent to the valley floor and then eight relatively flat miles beside the crystal blue Lyllel Creek before hitting pavement at the Tioga Pass road. Came out at Tuolumne Meadows and made it with 4 minutes to spare… before the grill closed! Yum… cheeseburger! It was a great hike — 348 miles w/o crossing any pavement. It was nice to have Kellen along for the last four days. Pics and HD video coming soon!

22 Comments

  1. Looking forward to seeing more pictures and the video. Another great hike. Good for you !!

  2. Hi Jamie,
    We loved reading your daily journal, will be looking forward to seeing those pictures/video that will be soon to follow πŸ™‚ Way to go on this adventure! We could never last over 3 weeks without a Crunchwrap Supreme. Haha. Looking forward to seeing you this weekend and meeting Kellen πŸ™‚

  3. Mt Whitney &11,100 ft pass Wow. Glad Kellen is with you for the last days and that she brought you good food πŸ™‚ Enjoy your hike.

  4. have a great time. what an accomplishment. cats are doing great kel will go in thurs and sat. stay safe mom and dad marty and judy

  5. Hey you two, Jamal & Kellen ! Good tracking your progress and anxious to
    talk to you in a few days. GOOD FOR U!!! Stay safe… Judy

  6. If you keep taking Kellen on those scary trails, she just might, when you get back to civilization, tell YOU to take a hike! πŸ™‚

  7. Jamie!! What a fantastic adventure!! I love your posts and can totally envision it all. Truly inspiring my friend. Keep on trekking.

  8. Dude. You’re incredible. And I imagine this is all being done with the usual compliment of camera equipment? Really looking forward to the photos/video.

  9. Love reading your daily logs. Good luck, but we know you can do it πŸ™‚

  10. It is really fun tracking you on this amazing hike through this site. Stay strong and keep up with the great daily reports. I hope you remain on your “Whitney high.” πŸ™‚ Very cool.

  11. Good for you !

  12. Wow, I know those foothills that you skirted over to get from 9 Mile to the Sacatar Trail, that sounds like an incredibly unpleasant hike! I wouldn’t even try a long hike out there until like November. Hopefully the rest of your trek is more pleasant (and smoke free, I noticed the Lion Fire was still putting a bunch of smoke out to the desert).

  13. Good luck. Hoping for good weather for you πŸ™‚

  14. This site is awesome! I like the daily journal and hearing of your daily events as you move along the map. Very cool and interesting.:)

  15. Hey You! If you login, you can leave me a comment! Give it a try.

    • Hey Son, We’re glad the trip is going well and you got to see a bear (one is enough!!). We’re glad you’re sending an update every day. Can’t wait to see the pics and hear your stories! Love, Mom & Dad

    • Aren’t you a good one!! You’re out there in the wilderness and still managed to send me a birthday present. How’d you do that? You’re the best! Thanks. Love, Mom. (You stay safe)

    • Hey Jamal: John here–we met north of Crabtree meadows–you noticed you had lost a trekking pole basket and I offerred you one. Brother Jeff and I made it up Whitney and spent the night on the summit along with 5 other folks. Slept out–a bit chilly but awesome! Can you believe a guy showed up at sunset, exhausted, with a sweater, runners jacket, runner’s snap up the leg warm-up pants, $2 mylar space blanket, water and a headlamp someone gave him on the way up–nothing else. We helped him out. Jeez! Exited Whitney Portal after completing the High Sierra Trail. Have looked briefly at your other hikes, will check them out in more detail. You sure are strong–huge pack. Familiar with Backpacking Light online magazine to help lighten your load? Keep up the awesome hikes and reporting and take care.

      • Heya John — thanks 4 writing. I did ok sans basket. Yeah… big pack, but not THAT heavy. Actually if I didn’t have 10lbs of electronics it would help. But… then I wouldn’t be able to do these updates or produce a HD video when done! And… I will never give up the 2lb tent or my sandals! Funny story… I had to help a ultra-light hiker out near Mather Pass. His shoe was falling apart and he didn’t have any duct tape to fix. πŸ™‚

        • Hey Jamal: John here. Just watched your HD video 1 & 2–awesome!! Great footage, great editing, great narration. Really good seeing familiar scenes (from Horseshoe Meadow, up Whitney, JMT to Silver Pass, some of Lyell Canyon). Keep up the awesome walking and documenting.